A lot of English press might choose to skip out the first couple of days of Paris but Day 1 as in the 29th September gave me a whole lot to get excited about. You'll have heard about Anthony Vaccarello getting feted, celebrated and praised to the skies. That of course without saying seeing as he won this year's ANDAM award. Julien David who showed later that day though also deserves a spotlight though for doing something that is a little out of sync with what you'd expect from Paris. David knows streetwear and has spent the last couple of seasons converging his indepth knowledge high grade Japanese streetwear with a meticulous use of Japanese fabrics that when combined create a vibrant mix that can hold its own up against the work of Parisian ateliers.
Julien David, whilst being French is mainly based in Tokyo and like a few other Japanese designers who showed at Paris, tremors of what happened earlier in the year in Japan did ripple through their collections, even if it was a subconsious thing. For David, he imagined a world collapsing on itself - a big bang in reverse and despite that immense vision, what actually manifested in the collection were a series of carefully researched and articulated prints that graced loose separates, tailored jackets that had multiple darts to convey the 'crunch' of the earth. The relaxed slouch of David's clothes actually does click in with the sporty vibes of S/S 12 but I get the impression that his clothes are more about real ease and comfort rather than clothes with sporty undertones but lack actual function. David's pockets in his trousers and shorts look properly deep too - if I can't bung a phone, a wallet, a small point and shoot and a lipbalm in them, they're not proper pockets to me...
Little details such as checks that have houndstooth polka dots embedded in the pattern only revealed themselves in the showroom...
In a season of PRINTS galore, David's well-researched prints come out looking slightly obscure and cryptic, which is a good thing considering there are so many literal offerings out there.
David's tailoring prowess is fully demonstrated in these jackets and considering his first foray into his own line of ready to wear started off with a core collection of coats, it's good to have this continuity whereby David really emphasises unique construction above all else.
I'm always an advocator of socks with sandals if the socks are worth showing and these Julien David ones with clear mesh panels are definitely worthy of a bit of sock n' sandals action...
The surprising star piece of the collection though is this tulle and organza flared out dress which is David putting out his most feminine work. He wanted to incorporate a waist into this collection and despite the prom dress shape which can look ever so hackneyed, I'd happily bounce around in this layer cake of a dress especially in the little lego men print dancing all over the skirt...
Incidentally, the shape of the dress is actually identical to the one David designed for Sarah Andelman, née Lerfel (although to me she'll always be Sarah colette), for her Woodstock wedding over the summer. Fortunately with Sarah being a huge supporter of David, she didn't mind too much about her dress being replicated for his collection in varying prints. Knowing what little I know about Sarah (notice how she DOESN'T allow her pic to be street-snapped....), I'm sure she'll loathe having these pics being pushed around on the internetz but I just love that she chose David to create this puffy concoction lined with neon yellow tulle and topped off with a Maison Michel headband as well as a pair of customised Converse trainers (Sarah is of course never seen in a pair of heels...). I'd be lying if it didn't make the mind cogitate into thinking up the most unconventional designers for my own wedding attire cocktail...
(Pics from colette and Purple Diary)
Sarah could have also topped off her look with a Julien David A/W 11-12 veil as seen here on Eniko in the September issue of Numero but that might have been overkill...
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