2012年6月15日星期五

Date and Location

Louis Vuitton
Designer: Marc Jacobs
Date and Location: Wenesday, Mar. 9, Cour Carrée du Louvre
Photos: slide show

Elie Saab
Designer: Elie Saab
Date and Location: Wenesday, Mar. 9, Espace Ephémère Tuileries, Jardin des Tuileries coach bags, 1er
Photos: slide show

  • “I wonder if the starlets in the front row … recognized the style references to their distant cousins?” (All The Rage)
  • “Proper, frankly unsexy wares.” (AP)
  • “Prada was obviously having a Hollywood moment, straight from a 1940s production.” (Daily Front Row)
  • “Curiously, today’s Miu Miu collection had a strong feel of its ‘older sister coach bags,’ Prada; while the Prada collection, shown during the recent Milan Fashion Week, had had echoes of Miu Miu.” (The Daily Telegraph)
  • “A grown up little-girl-lost.” (ELLEuk.com)
  • “A ’40s-inspired collection that was given a dose of modernity in the way of floral or bird print wrap dresses paired with tilted baseball caps and glittery platform heels.” (FabSugar)
  • “While it obviously referenced ’40s glamour, it was the most modern collection of all in terms of silhouette and line.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
  • “Vintage but not retro.” (FashionEtc.com)
  • “If Miuccia Prada had outfitted Madonna for her role as Mae Mordabito in ’A League of Their Own,’ it would look exactly Miu Miu fall 2011.” (Fashionista)
  • “This collection was full of a very grown up womanly elegance.” (Grazia)
  • “The predominant look was cut straight, as if taken from daddy’s closet.” (Heard on the Runway)
  • “At times I felt that I was in a Bette Davis movie — Charlotte Vale alighting a gangplank but now in sparkly yellow pumps.” (The New York Times)
  • “Hailee Steinfeld, Jennifer Lawrence, and Mila Kunis sat front-row at Miu Miu, but on the runway Miuccia Prada has moved on from last season’s fascination with the cult of contemporary celebrity.” (Style.com)
  • “Cut to contrive a waist-shrinking illusion Adrian knew all about when he dressed Joan Crawford. In other words, this … was a flattering and non-challenging collection obviously based on Old Hollywood glamour.” (Vogue.com)
  • “It was languid and alluring, full of fresh new ideas for the new generation Hollywood chicks in the front row.” (Vogue.com UK)
  • “Made for an engaging riposte to her main show in Milan. Instead of aiming for girlish innocence as she did there, chez Miu Miu, Prada set her sights on a more grown-up tack.” (WWD)

Fall 2011 Fashion Week
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  • “A lush selection of flowing gowns ready for red-carpet duty.” (AFP)
  • “Saab’s detractors complain the Lebanese red carpet favorite’s collections are always the same, but frankly, if it’s not broke, why fix it?” (AP)
  • “Dresses were strong but deceivingly simple.” (Catwalk Queen)
  • “For sheer glamour and glitz, who beats Lebanese designer Elie Saab?” (Daily Front Row)
  • “Overall it was a crowd-pleaser, full of pretty clothes for pretty women.” (FabSugar)
  • “A sober Elie Saab , can it be true? Well, not exactly.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “The Lebanese designer makes perfectly fine clothes, but his insistence on turning his runway presentation into a catalog shoot dilutes his message.” (Style.com)
  • “A straightforward exercise in glamour.” (WWD)

  • “[A] ballet between call girls, mistresses and wives.” (AFP)
  • “It made for an eyeful of earthy delights at the early hour of 10 a.m.” (All The Rage)
  • “All about the obscure object of desire: corsets, patent leather boots, see-through raincoats and handcuffs.” (AP)
  • “Marc Jacobs ended the Fashion Week season with a bang.” (Catwalk Queen)
  • “If Fashion Week were a movie, you would scream ‘No way!’ at Marc Jacobs’s ending.” (The Cut)
  • “Wearing 13-inch heels, often in corsets and sporting extreme hour-glass figures sometimes topped with hotel bell-boy hats, this collection might possibly go down in Paris Fashion Week history.” (Daily Front Row)
  • “Fashion’s obsession with handbags was at the core of the compelling spectacle.” (The Daily Telegraph)
  • “A phenomenal collection.” (Elle.com)
  • “The fetish theme of Marc Jacobs’s autumn winter 2011 show was as clear as the perspex macs.” (ELLEuk.com)
  • “Models in suggestive uniforms with tiny plastic masks, S&M corsets, mini handcuffs and bits of bondage hit the glassy black catwalk, though in the most ladylike of doses.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
  • “Marc Jacobs at his powerful, provocative finest.” (FashionEtc.com)
  • “Oh, so about the actual show. The definition of ‘fetish’ was printed in bold on Vuitton’s line sheets. And Jacobs knows that it’s all about the accessories.” (Fashionista)
  • “An appropriately scandalous finale to a Paris fashion week riven by rumour and disgrace.” (The Guardian)
  • “A tease of a show that focused on fethishes.” (Heard on the Runway)
  • “Irony aside, the workmanship that goes into this collection is indeed elevated to the point almost of worship.” (The Independent)
  • “There has not been such a racy and saucy LV runway since Mr. Jacobs sent out nurses’ uniforms, inspired by Richard Prince paintings, back in 2007.” (International Herald Tribune)
  • “Marc Jacobs toyed with fetishism in a faux-naughty way.” (Interview)
  • “Certainly the timing of this collection, at the end of the Paris shows, could not have been stranger. My guess is it was a clever provocation.” (The New York Times)
  • “Sreamed live, tweeted live-er and consumed instantly by millions — even billions — worldwide, fashion has become the ultimate voyeuristic pursuit. Was that what inspired Marc Jacobs to explore the fetishist — and, indeed, feti-chic — side of Louis Vuitton for Autumn/Winter 2011?” (SHOWstudio.com)
  • “We know of very few designers who can simultaneously pump out the product — in this case, many multi-thousand-dollar luxury handbags — and provoke like Jacobs can.” (Style.com)
  • “Even when a pretty ‘conversational-print,’ schoolgirlish forties-type dress came out, the cute pose of the model, with both hands behind her back coach bags, was actually a result of her wrists being handcuffed together while displaying her particular Lockit.” (Vogue.com)
  • “Subversive innocence personified.” (Vogue.com UK)
  • “Obsession, and irony, too. What’s not to love about fashion?” (WWD)

Latex and sky-high heels. Sound slightly familiar? If designers showing on the final day of Paris fashion week who missed the cut elsewhere in our 29-day 4-city style odyssey learned anything, it’s the power of second chances. Miuccia Prada changed up the girlishness on her Milan runway for Golden Age looks for Young Hollywood at Miu Miu, but Marc Jacobs ended it all with a bang for critics by sticking to his guns with the whole commodity feti-chic thing at Louis Vuitton. Another day, another Scorecard.

Miu Miu
Designer: Miuccia Prada
Date and Location: Wenesday, Mar. 9, Palais d’léna, 16e
Photos: slide show

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